The many things that Gunung Batur and its lake has to offer...


Most visitors go to Gunung Batur for a quick visit, lunch and a spectacular view on the inner crater. On a clear day you can see the volcano so clearly that it feels like you are looking at a picture.

However if it’s a bit misty than you are out of luck...you won’t be able to see a thing except for the clouds.

The best view is at Penelokan village, but basically along the main road you can see the entire lake.

Another excellent look-out point is at Pura Puncak Penulisan in Penulisan, the highest temple in Bali. Here, on a clear day, you can see rice terraces for kilometers on end and even the northern coast.

 

view on lake batur

 

There are many restaurants along the main road where you can have lunch with first-class views of the lake and mountainous area. These restaurants usually offer set-buffet lunches so you can choose and eat whatever you want.

I think this is a popular way to serve food, so the tourist busses can have lunch quickly and continue their tour.

We have eaten this way twice. The first time was in a restaurant in Penelokan. Despite the gorgeous location the food was very disappointing, unlike a restaurant in Kintamani where the food was really good.

So check out the buffet first before taking a seat.

 

restaurant kintamani gunung batur bali
Enjoy lunch with a terrific view

 

Anyway enough about food, more on Gunung Batur...

Besides watching the spectacular view from above you can also take the road from Penelokan down to the inner rim.

The landscape of Gunung Batur and its surrounding has been created by the eruptions that have taken place in 1917 and 1926.

Kintamani and Batur used to be down in the crater, however after the eruptions these villages were completely destroyed and thousands were killed.

 

view from penelokan batur lake bali
Great views from Penelokan

 

So after these dramatic events, the villagers decided to relocate more up the crater where it is "safer".

The lava streams of these eruptions are clearly visible when standing on the outer rim. When looking at the landscape, you can only imagine what an impact the eruption must have had on the people and the area.

Once down at the inner crater there is practically nothing growing. Just a barren landscape with rocks and some shrubs...

 

landscape around gunung batur bali
The dry volcanic landscape

The remaining villages are located on the edge of Lake Batur where they mainly cultivate vegetables and fruit.

The lake plays an important role in cultivating their crops; however other villages much further away are also dependent on this lake as a water source.

Every year the rice farmers from the villages nearby Ubud gather around the lake to offer a buffalo to ensure the lake provides sufficient irrigation and fertility for the next year...

Travellers who plan a longer visit to Gunung Batur usually hike up the mountain. The villages near the lake are an ideal starting point if you want to see the sunset on the top.

 

outer rim of gunung batur bali
Villagers moved to the edge of Gunung Batur to cultivate
vegetables and fruit

 

There are many routes you can take to reach the top. From Kintamani there is even a road leading close to the top of the mountain from where you have to walk a little bit.

If you want to do some real Bali hiking than you can choose between the shortest trail (2h up, 1,5h down) from Purajati which is located on the west side of the lake or the somewhat longer trail starting from Toya Bungka, a village a bit further from Purajati.

Most travellers start from Toya Bungka however either way, if you leave just before 4am you will be rewarded with the amazing sunset on the top of the mountain.

 

slopes of gunung batur bali
The lava streams are visible on the mountain slopes

 

In the little village Trunyan, on the east side of Lake Batur you can find the first descendents of Bali.

The Bali Aga of Trunyan are very poor compared to another Bali Aga village, Tenganan near Candi dasa.

The village is located beneath the steep slopes of the volcano which makes that little bit of agriculture almost impossible.

 

dry landscape at gunung batur bali
Hardly any agricultural activity is possible
on the other side of the lake

 

An interesting aspect of the Bali Aga people of Trunyan is that they do not cremate their dead like the other parts of Bali.

Instead, the remains of the deceased are placed slightly covered by rattan under a big banyan tree for the birds and wild animals to eat.

After a while, all that can be found are the skulls and bones. The Bali Aga people believe that the birds will take the soul of the deceased with them to heaven and so encourages reincarnation.

The bodies are also placed under the banyan tree for a very good reason as the trees obscures the smell of decay.

In the past Trunyan was pretty isolated and the Bali Aga people were weary for outsiders. However, today there is even a road connecting the village with the outside world.

 

fruit at kintamani gunung batur
My mom buying fruit from the many stalls along the road of
Kintamani and Penelokan

 

Because of the high number of visitors to Gunung Batur and its lake there are a lot of people who want to make a living from the many travellers:

... women run to the tourist buses carrying dozens of sarongs and t-shirts, children selling postcards and many guides who want to bring you to the top of the mountain.

Their persistence has led to many annoyances among travellers who visit the area. The best thing is to ignore them after kindly stating you don’t want to buy anything.

If you want to go hiking around the area, then best is to ask at the hotel what the options are for guided tours.


 

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